How to enjoy the spring flavours of farmers' markets
2nd Apr 2024 Food Heroes
3 min read
From asparagus and carrots to leafy greens and peas, Paola Westbeek is inspired by the farmers' market and the colours and flavours of spring
While it’s true that every season brings
its own bounty, the colours and flavours of springtime always fill me with the
most inspiration. There’s nothing quite as uplifting as indulging in a
leisurely early morning stroll through the farmers’ market right around the
beginning of April, when the stalls are piled high with everything from
fluorescent pink rhubarb to bunches of dewy, vibrant green watercress. For me,
spotting the season’s first asparagus in all its pristine splendour is always a
reason to celebrate with a fine bottle of Riesling (a pairing made in gourmet
heaven).
"As the days grow lighter, so does our appetite"
This delectable culinary awakening is
not only a feast for the senses, but it also delivers a much-needed health
boost after the heavier fare that has comforted us through winter. As the days
grow lighter, so does our appetite, which is why we start to crave the simple
pleasures of things like steamed new potatoes dressed with only a drizzle of
melted butter, freshly-podded peas sprinkled with the brightness of lemon zest
and mint, or succulent strawberries so perfect and sweet all on their own.
Winter may be all about spicing things up with warm tastes and aromas, but
spring heralds a return to pure, unadulterated flavours.
If you’re looking for inspiration to get
the most out of the season (whether using produce from the market or your own
edible garden), here are some ideas to create the perfect springtime meal.
Starters
Getting enough leafy greens is easy with the arrival of the season’s first
watercress. With their pepper flavour, the tender leaves are great in warm
potato salads with a mustard and cider vinegar dressing but also wonderful in a
zingy salsa verde or as an alternative to basil in pesto. Choose leaves that
are dark green with crisp stems and use soon after purchase, or wrap in damp
paper towel and store for up to two days. Speaking of pesto, did you know that
you can replace basil with radish greens or the fronds of young carrots, too?
"The season’s first peas and broad beans are excellent in delicate soups"
The season’s first peas and broad
beans are excellent in delicate soups seasoned with garden herbs and finished
with a swirl of cream. You can also braise fresh peas in stock with caramelised
shallots and shredded little gem lettuce. Known as petits pois
à la Française,
this elegant preparation is an easy side dish that truly highlights the
sweetness of the peas. When buying peas and broad beans, make sure the pods are
plump and firm. Opt for smaller ones as the peas will generally be sweeter and
more tender.
Mains
When in season, from late April until late June, asparagus
is more than a side—it’s the star of many of my main dishes. I love using the
green spears in risotto with lemon, tarragon and chervil or in a gratin with a
velvety béchamel sauce and a crisp topping of buttery, spicy breadcrumbs. The
white variety is lovely in quiches and other savoury tarts but can also be
thinly sliced and eaten raw in a salad with pink radishes, citrus fruit and
roasted hazelnuts. Asparagus is best when locally harvested and consumed within
a day after purchase. To determine freshness, make sure the tips are smooth and
the stalks squeak when rubbed together.
"Young carrots are another beloved springtime delight"
Young carrots are another beloved
springtime delight. I recently tried them in a galette. Simply roast the
carrots with good olive oil, flaky sea salt and pepper. Layer on a round sheet
of flaky pastry and fold the edges in towards the carrots. Bake at 200°C until golden and serve with a pistou (the
French version of pesto) made with flat-leaf parsley and fragrant dill. Carrots
should be firm and unblemished with lush, vibrant fronds. If using the fronds
in pestos or soups, it’s advisable to choose organic carrots.
Desserts
Though used in jams, compotes and a favourite in British desserts such as
crumbles with custard or a classic fool, botanically, rhubarb, is a vegetable.
When it comes to spring desserts, rhubarb is the leader of the pack.
Think
outside the box and add it to a lavender-infused crème brûlée, or use it in a
tiramisu crowned with a fine layer of ground pistachios mixed with a dash of
matcha powder. And remember that strawberries, which make their appearance in
early May, are a winning combination with rhubarb, especially in an
old-fashioned, lattice crust pie.
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