Money saving DIY tips: Draughtproofing windows

Clean the window frame with water and a little washing-up liquid to remove all grease and dirt. Rinse and wait for the surface to dry.

Most of the draughtproofing strips shown left are suitable for use on a wooden casement window. Only the strips with an adhesive backing can be used on a metal casement window.

1. Cut lengths to fit with scissors or a trimming knife. 

2. Peel away the protective backing as you stick down each length on the rebate. Make sure that one piece of excluder goes right into each corner.

For large or uneven gaps, a silicone sealant (also called a frame sealant) is particularly useful, but cannot be used on sash windows. It can also be used on doors. Read any advice on the container before you begin.

Rigid brush strip is the most suitable material for sealing the sides of a sash window, as the sashes slide over it easily.

1. Measure the height of the sliding sashes and cut four pieces of brush strip – two pieces for each sash.

2. Fix the strip to either side of the frame: on the inside of the inner sash and on the outside of the outer sash. Use pre-holed strip, fixing it with the pins provided and a hammer.

Unless the window is not opened very often, self-adhesive strip is not suitable because it is unlikely to withstand the friction from the sashes as they slide. Replace the sashes and beading.

3. Seal the gap at the top and bottom of the sashes with any of the more durable foam strips fixed to the frame or the sash.

4. If there is a draught between the top and bottom sashes of the window, fix nylon brush pile strip to the bottom sash at the meeting point.