Joanna Cruddas writes:
“Hotting up” for Chelsea Flower Show feels the most inappropriate phrase! I can’t imagine how the exhibitors cope with the wet, cold and overall uncertainty of weather. Down at the plot, I am approaching crisis point. It’s practically bare, except for weeds, while window ledges at home are crammed with seedlings getting leggier by the day.
I suppose I am more aware of the weather because I escaped for a week of warmth and blue skies in southern Albania. I’m not one who regularly tours ancient sites, but I’ve had a yearning to go to Albania ever since being stunned by the beauty of northern Greece. One of the bonuses of clambering over archaeological sites is that they tend to be havens for wild flowers, and although I suspect the best flora is in the north, the South certainly gave us a show.
At Apollonia we looked down over plains of asphodels. I’d never seen them in such quantity.
a stray Asphodelus microcarpus
plains of asphodels
On the way to the World Heritage Site, Butrint we stopped briefly at Porto Palermo. Here the euphorbia trees formed clouds of yellow-green, luminous against the sea below. Sage grew in abundance under the euphorbia and we learned that it is exported to the United States and Turkey for medicinal purposes.
A fellow traveller spotted the poisonous squirting cucumber enjoying the shelter of the fort. It was still in flower so I couldn’t put its poisonous fruit-squirting reputation to the test.
Tree Spurge or Euphorbia dendroides
Sage covers the area around Palermo
Squirting cucumber (Ecballium elaterium) in flower.
The road below Antigone was lined with Judas trees in full flower. As we approached the ancient city ruins we noticed the hills were scattered with clumps of wild hellebores. But here I also spotted a less welcome sight; a tangle of pine processionary caterpillars on the grass.
We’d noticed their white silky nests dotted around the branch tips of pine trees on the way up. They are doing untold and, to date I believe, unstoppable damage to pine trees.
Judas trees (Cercis siliquastrum)
Hellebore
Pine processionary caterpillars (Thaumetopoea pityocampa)
Albania boasts 32 species of campanula. I saw just one!
It was probably too early to see the Albanian lily in flower, but at least I found it represented on the walls of the 19th century Et’hembey Mosque in Tirana.
I didn’t see any allotments, although we passed gardens growing vegetables. On our last morning we went to the market. The leeks were comparable only to our ‘exhibition’ leeks in length. All the veg looked just out of the ground. A trick I learned was to keep spraying the carrots. It makes them shiny and irrestistible!
I already can’t wait to see more of Albania. A good guide is the making of a trip such as ours and Tony, our guide, was brilliant. I also discovered a website which helps us plan our holidays by theme. The possibilities for flora and gardening holidays look promising!
The Three-Year Allotment Notebook by Joanna Cruddas with photographs by Edwina Sassoon is published by Frances Lincoln at £12.99








































































































